Looser-knit than its Eden Valley sibling, yet more open and appreciable are the saturated dark berry fruits, anise, Chinese lacquer and five-spice notes, as a result. The tannins - oak and grape - are there. Palpable, tactile, juicy. But buried by the wine's sheer generosity before they re-emerge from the morass across the wine's tail, steering it right into savour over sweet.

-- James Halliday